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A few people have asked me to describe Prism.  I thought the picture
 would be the way to go.  You describe it and let me know.  It is one of
Nolan Blansit's hybrids that I purchased from him and named.  I really
 like it because it is so different....................  Jack Olson

HOW TO PLANT AND GROW RHODODENDRONS IN HEAVY CLAY SOIL

            You will hear many people say, "Dig a hole about 2 inches bigger than the size of the pot bound root ball and plop it into the hole."
That is what I have heard from even landscapers who plant Rhodies. But you can almost hear the plants screaming "No! No! No!" For they know they will have a short tortured life. That is not the way to plant rhododendrons in any type of soil.

            After much experimentation we found an easy and fool proof method to grow rhododendrons and azaleas in clay.  Our twenty-five year old garden contains six hundred plus plants. This method works.

            Rhododendrons have very fine roots that grow in loose organic soils. If a Rhodie is stunted in its early life it will never grow out of it. So first of all do not buy root bound plants. Buy only plants in loose soil that have little white roots growing out from the root ball. then plant in loose soil. how do you do this in clay? Spade up an area about 3 or 4 feet wide, so that the roots will have plenty of room to expand. Put a wheelbarrow full (about 5 cubic feet) of coarse bark mulch (I prefer cedar bark) on top spading it in until it is well mixed with your soil. this is essential because the Rhodie roots are very fibrous and cannot penetrate heavy clay soil. This added bark will elevate your plant above the surface of the the ground and will produce good drainage. Rhododendrons roots need air and are very shallow and need to be planted on top of the soil. So there is no need to dig a hole. Just spade bark into the soil and plant.

            Your Rhodies will need water 12 months out of the year. During the hot summer a 5 or 6 foot plant can use as much as  6 to 8 gallons of water a day to stay healthy. During the winter some water is needed to keep the root ball from drying out. So if your plants are under the eaves of your house or under evergreen trees you will have to water them occasionally during  the winter especially if there is a couple of weeks with little or no rain. Check your soil.

            Fertilizing is also essential because our heavy rainfall will wash out nitrogen and sulfur from our soil. We use what OSU recommends for this clay soil 20-12-8-8. It also has many micronutrients for complete health of your plants. It calls for fertilizing 3 times a y ear. late fall, November, early spring February, late spring May. As your plants mature you may want to skip the February feeding so your plants won't grow too large. I still feed my small plants 3 times a year to keep them growing happily.

            If  you want your plants to get a good start and do well for the life of the plant the easiest way is to plant them in the fall or early winter. The reason for this is so that the roots can get out into your soil before the plant glooms and start to grow and the hot summer comes upon them. Most good nursery's have pictures or at least descriptions so you can pick the ones you prefer. But planting in the spring while in bloom is much more fun. Of course being newly planted the boom won't last as long. If you do plant just before they bloom or while they are blooming be sure the roots are able to get into your soil quickly. Any pot grown plants should have the soil around their roots loosened. If the plant is root bound take it back. Even if the plant is free it not worth the effort. We know the futility of trying to grow inferior plants. Our customers receive only top quality field grown plants. All newly planted perennials need to be kept well watered expecially during the first summer. Especially Rhododendrons. This will stop the leaves from burning and they can set buds for next year.

.........................................................................................................................................Sanders Nursery

                                                       FRIENDS FOR YOUR RHODIES

We all remember our parents admonishing us to be careful in our choice of friends.  The familiar “you’re known by the company you keep” or variations of that phrase was a common refrain.  So, how do you feel about the company your rhododendrons are keeping?  Are you pleased with their companions, or are those consorts viewed with about the same enthusiasm as suitors for your teen age daughter’s attention?

 Not only is our generally benign climate west of the Cascades one of the world’s better places to grow hundreds of different rhododendron species and hybrids, a very wide range of other plant material grows well and rapidly here.  Among that almost ceaseless bounty are countless different varieties which will reside happily among your rhodies.  This article will focus on three very special genera, all of which can be represented in even a small garden. 

 Maples, Genus Acer.  Here one need not go far afield to choose our native Vine Maple-Acer circinatum.  We’ve all seen this graceful, multi-stemmed plant growing in the forest understory, and its brilliant fall color, but they are less common in gardens.  Slow growing and seldom overwhelming, they deserve wider use.  A few named cultivars are available, including smaller growing examples, or you can’t go wrong with even a seedling.  Avoid the other native maple, Acer macrophyllum.  The Big Leaf Maple becomes a huge and invasive tree with monumental leaf litter in the fall and is dangerous as it eventually rots from the inside out.  Limbs and even the tree often fall without warning.  

Japanese Maples, Acer japonicum, Acer palmatum and the lesser known Acer shirasawanum  There are literally hundreds of named examples within this grouping, and they are found-usually palmatum varieties-in almost every garden with good reason.  Sizes will vary from dwarfs to mid height trees, some have weeping growth habits, leaves are often finely divided and can be green, gold, orange or red and autumn color is outstanding to frequently spectacular.  They remain interesting through the winter when the intricately twisted yet pleasing growth form provides its own beauty.

Dogwoods, Genus Cornus.  Probably the most commonly used in gardens are the Pacific dogwood, Cornus nuttallii, and the Eastern dogwood, Cornus florida.  But these are not really the best choice because of their susceptibility to anthracnose, a malady encouraged by our wet springtime weather.  This disease most visibly attacks the leaves, rendering them at best unattractive and often resulting in much leaf fall in late spring to early summer.  Cornus kousa is largely immune to this affliction and thus a better choice.  Named clones have ‘flowers’, actually bracts surrounding the true flowers, ranging from white to deep pink.  As a bonus, they put on another show in late summer to early fall with strawberry like fruit, often followed by excellent leaf color.     

And finally, Genus Magnolia.  Nursery catalogues devote entire sections to this superb group which ranges from shrubs, to small trees, to large trees.  They blend well with rhododendrons and like essentially the same cultural conditions.  Flowering time-some as large as dinner plates-extends from late winter to early summer.  Many have fragrant flowers, with colors ranging from white to pink to deep purple or red and even yellow with more recently developed hybrids.  There’s not a bad one in the lot, though you should be careful to choose a size which won’t outgrow your site.   

If you’re already a member of the American Rhododendron Society, you know that information such as this and much more is available through our regular monthly chapter meetings, regional and international conferences, chapter newsletter, the informative quarterly Journal, ARS and, probably best of all, friends you make among fellow members.  You’re welcome to attend our chapter meetings at no charge but for a better return, purchase a membership to enjoy the full spectrum of benefits.  Annual dues are a modest $35 (individual) and $40 (family).  A small investment indeed for a hobby that has brought endless and lifetime enjoyment to those who leave cares behind in the tranquility of their gardens of every size. 

Eugene Chapter meetings are the second Thursday of October, November and January through March, are held at Campbell Senior Center, 155 High Street, Eugene, and begin with a hospitality hour at 7 p.m.  Picnics are generally scheduled at member gardens in June and September, and December finds us enjoying a holiday potluck at the Campbell Center.  April brings an early truss show, dinner, speaker and special plant auction and then we have a large public truss show at the Oakway Center the first weekend in May.

 Come join the fun!                                                                           Gordon Wylie

FEATURED PLANT ARCHIVE

    The following table of plants (and their cultivators) is an archive for the "FEATURED PLANT"
    on the Home Page. Clicking on the name will take you back to the image and personal description.                      
  
HYBRIDS                                                                       SPECIES

NEW UNREGISTERED HYBRIDS
[(R. tapetiforme x R. davidsonianum 'Serenade') x R. davidsonianum 'Ruth Lyons'].....L.Mensing 1980
          L.Mensing's plant is no longer unregistered. It is now called "First Date"